Bamboo as Textile: Challenges, Quality, Processing and Technical Properties. See what’s in store in the coming weeks here.
What designers need to know about bamboo
All fabrics are not created equally.
Take bamboo fiber as an example. Before the 2009 FTC bamboo backlash, the fabric, (which was principally being sold in bamboo viscose form), was being marketed in most cases as “bacteriostatic, biodegradable, natural, hypoallergenic and breathable.” Before getting into some of the descriptors, however, let’s talk about the processing techniques.
There still is some discrepancy and misunderstanding on how bamboo (Phyllostachys heterocycla pubescens), the plant, is processed into a fiber or fabric. This has been due to unclear processing techniques and in some cases – “proprietary processing” muddled with snappy marketing leftovers circa 2008. Bamboo is largely processed as a regenerated cellulosic rayon fiber (Figure 1), which uses solvents and other chemicals to break down and bleach the woody fiber. A less common, more costly practice is a mechanical process combined with enzymes that create bamboo linen (Figure 2), which has fabric properties more akin to a traditional bast fiber like flax or hemp.
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Bamboo as Textile: Challenges, Quality, Processing and Technical Properties. See what’s in store in the coming weeks here.
What designers need to know about bamboo
All fabrics are not created equally.
Take bamboo fiber as an example. Before the 2009 FTC bamboo backlash, the fabric, (which was principally being sold in bamboo viscose form), was being marketed in most cases as “bacteriostatic, biodegradable, natural, hypoallergenic and breathable.” Before getting into some of the descriptors, however, let’s talk about the processing techniques.
There still is some discrepancy and misunderstanding on how bamboo (Phyllostachys heterocycla pubescens), the plant, is processed into a fiber or fabric. This has been due to unclear processing techniques and in some cases – “proprietary processing” muddled with snappy marketing leftovers circa 2008. Bamboo is largely processed as a regenerated cellulosic rayon fiber (Figure 1), which uses solvents and other chemicals to break down and bleach the woody fiber. A less common, more costly practice is a mechanical process combined with enzymes that create bamboo linen (Figure 2), which has fabric properties more akin to a traditional bast fiber like flax or hemp.
Figure 1. Photomicrograph of rayon fibers. A close inspection of rayon fibers reveals fibers with a smoother surface to it’s bamboo linen counterpart, which is mechanically processed. (Wet mount, 10x objective, transmitted brightfield illumination).
Figure 2. Photomicrograph of linen fibers. Fibers are ripped apart to obtain fiber for textiles and are broken down enzymatically. Cell walls are still visible. (Wet mount, 10x objective, transmitted brightfield illumination).
Rayon processing, though chemical in nature, has improved over the years. It has been documented that some manufacturers use a lyocell-type process (closed-loop rayon processing in which chemicals are recycled), but closer analysis needs to be assessed for each manufacturer. Additionally, it is important to consider that the facility has appropriate wastewater treatment facilities and worker health and safety standards.
There has been some discrepancy on how bamboo is processed…due to unclear processing techniques…muddled with snappy marketing leftovers circa 2008.
If you sell clothing, linens, or other textile products, you’re responsible for making truthful disclosures about the fiber content. If your product isn’t made directly of bamboo fiber (i.e., bamboo linen) — but is a manufactured fiber for which bamboo was the plant source (i.e., rayon or viscose) — it should be labeled and advertised using the proper generic name for the fiber, such as “rayon”, “bamboo rayon” or “rayon made from bamboo.”
What’s so technical about it?
Bamboo’s natural porosity as a plant has given it a unique ability to absorb and wick away moisture. Multiple testing laboratories, both international and abroad, show positive results, though it is important to note that these tests will vary on how fabric is manufactured and processed. We encourage suppliers and designers to run independent third-party tests on moisture-vapor transmission and other performance features.
Bamboo as a bactericide?
One of the popular properties in bamboo-based fabric that designers and manufacturers alike were praising was an undisclosed “antimicrobial agent,” often referred to as “bamboo kun.” It is largely known now that after rayon processing all bacteriostatic activity is no longer present.
For years, however, the hunt for the mysterious “bamboo kun” was on. Internet sites praised its properties but no one questioned what it actually was or where it came from. In bamboo plant extract studies, 2,6-dimethoxy-p-benzoquinone was isolated and identified. This is most likely the bactericide colloquially known as “bamboo kun.” This particular quinone is clearly naturally-occurring in the plant prior to processing. Various sources show evidence that if bamboo is burned into charcoal and spun into the rayon fiber during final processing, the antimicrobial properties are still retained, but further studies are encouraged to confirm those reports.*
It is unclear but the quinone may be the reason why some still tout bamboo fabric as “hypoallergenic.” If this is the case, it is not advisable to promote bamboo fabric as such considering that the benzoquinone derivative has been shown to cause allergic skin reactions in guinea pigs and humans. Though there have been no reported incidences regarding allergies to bamboo-based clothes and only 2% to 5% of the population will develop an allergic sensitivity to one or more compounds found in plants, effects of the chemical on the body should be taken into account if shown to be present.
*Note: Antimicrobial properties, if they are to be used as a marketing angle, should be validated by a certified, independent third party testing facility.
Tune in next Friday, April 29th for Oh So MOSO Series 1.3: The Market – Inter- and Intra-market demands, claims and standards. See what’s in store in the coming weeks here.
And let us know if you’d like for us to set up a group webinar on this Series of Textile Talk: Oh So Moso.
