Our esteemed colleague, Elizabeth Cloyd (a.k.a. EClo) came back recently from a sourcing trip in Ghana. Join her on June 14, 2011 at Guilded to hear her story on sourcing in the country and get a sneak peek at the materials that Source4Style will be showcasing.

Day 3 emerged from Peru Moda and were ready to set out onto a sourcing journey through Peru. First stop was to visit James (a.k.a. Robert Redford) at his facility to find the best organic cottons – from natural color cotton to long staple Pima – to offer the Source4Style community.

By happenstance, we met up with him the night before. From the heavy brown briefcase he lugged around all night across the lawn, through the hotel, and into the casino – we could tell that he had big plans to work with us into the wee hours of the night. We had plans only to eat. Between Benita whipping out some supremely articulate Spanish and the plans for the day all falling into place likely a neatly played game of Tetris, we managed to get a lot accomplished.

Rich GOTS-certified organic cotton colors will be making their way onto the Source4Style platform in the coming months

Different indigo shades of organic cotton denim

There was no lack of organic cotton and alpaca yarns available in Peru

Words to live by

Benita working with the girls

James running down the Source4Style list of SKUs

That infamous caramel-colored suitcase

That’s a lot of SKUs!

James working in the warehouse

Organic cotton rolls – fresh from the warehouse. Delicious!

Different organic cotton weaves

Some friendly passerbys

Lima, Peru – It may have been the first time for Source4Style at  Peru Moda, but we ended up bumping into quite a few people that we know. Our very own advisor, Marcella Echavarria introduced us to this fine woman above – Titi Guiulfo – a Peruvian designer working on all sorts of alpaca materials (see below).

A series of handwoven alpaca materials (above). Machine-woven alpaca (below).

(Above) Source4Style will be launching a number of alpaca yarns on our site in the coming months.

Peru Moda had an exhibition where student weavers created swatches of woven alpaca. Stay tuned for more updates from Peru, Lima.

In this third installment of Textile Talk: Oh So Moso, we look in Bamboo, The Market: Inter- and Intra-market demands, claims and standards

Moso vs. Cotton: Commensalism or Competition?

With bamboo’s move into the marketplace, discussion among the textile industry as to whether it would cut into the cotton market has been broached. (Cotton currently provides over 50% of all of the world’s fiber needs).

Can bamboo in time surpass cotton as the world’s major fiber crop? With a growing market of textiles and a rising interest in more sustainable alternatives, BASIC, biodynamic and organically-grown products, fibers like bamboo and cotton are more likely to successfully share the market than completely replace one another.

At this stage of the game, bamboo as a fiber doesn’t show any sign of eclipsing cotton. Currently bamboo (principally used in building and alternative wood-based products) supports an international trade of approximately $2.5 billion (Hunter, 2003) whereas cotton (primarily used as a fiber crop) supports an international trade of $12 billion. Additionally, cotton is grown on 76 million acres worldwide, while China, the country which hosts the largest acreage of bamboo forests, has a total of 17.8 million acres (10.4 million acres of plantations and 7.4 million acres of natural stands in mountain regions) (Zehui, 2003). Material outputs per acre of bamboo fiber vs. cotton fiber vary widely, but if average outputs per material existed, we would have even a greater number on which to compare.

Eco-friendly marketing

Bamboo rayon is not a new material. Philipp Lichtenstadt officially patented the rayon processing for bamboo in 1864 (US Patent & Trademark Office). However, it took nearly 140 years for it to make its first significant commercial appearance in the marketplace. Since its launch in 2004, bamboo-based materials have been touted as “eco-friendly.” This may have been in response to numerous retailers and manufacturers requesting environmentally-preferable materials for their collections, as a way to differentiate from the trend of organic cotton in the market.

As the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) has noted, “Environmental marketing claims [in the apparel sector] have expanded significantly over the last decade as more and more companies have woven environmental and sustainability practices and goals into their businesses and down to their bottom line (AAFA letter to FTC, Dec 10, 2010).” Manufacturers of materials have responded to this demand and will quite often market materials or certain attributes of specific materials as “environmentally-friendly.”

During the first half of 2004, the marketing of “bamboo” fiber became very popular in the apparel and home textile market. The vast majority of the material produced was bamboo rayon and later bamboo rayon-cotton blends. However, due to heavy green marketing claims and lack of awareness, most material was labeled simply as “bamboo.”

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In 2006, roughly $10 million worth of bamboo textiles were sold in the U.S. and $50 million worth worldwide.

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Many fashion and athletic apparel companies, particularly those that subscribed to ecologically-conscious principles, became early adopters of the material and pretty soon the market was flooded with jackets, jerseys, robes, and dresses made from the woody grass. In 2006, roughly $10 million worth of bamboo textiles were sold in the U.S. and $50 million worth worldwide (Durst, 2006). The material was popularly touted as “antimicrobial,” “natural,” and “renewable” with very little backup or description to those claims.

This lack of transparency around bamboo fiber production combined with the increased promotion of eco-friendly claims in the industry spurred controversy and in 2009 the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) began questioning both the fabric labeling and the environmental claims. In August of 2009 the FTC published a consumer alert and six months later issued warnings to 78 retailers and manufacturers of bamboo so that they could take corrective action on labeling and advertising. The letters were additionally accompanied by information that the mislabeling was a violation of the FTC Act and by not taking a course correction, each violation would cost companies $16,000 per violation.

An example of improper labeling of bamboo-based clothing

An example of proper labeling of bamboo-based clothing

This labeling controversy spurred FTC to revisit their “Green Guide,” which was a standard guide for use of environmental marketing claims released ten years prior.

All this being said, bamboo is not without its benefits. As a raw material, it often requires little or no pesticide application due to its fast-growing nature. It does not require replanting since it is a perennial species, and like many plants – has a natural resistance to some pests. Because of that, it is often considered superior to natural (non-synthetic) fibers like conventional cotton, which requires pesticides, chemical defoliants and quite a bit of water.

However, unlike natural vegetal fibers like organic cotton, hemp and linen, the commercially viable fiber of bamboo (bamboo rayon), which has been the topic of discussion here, is currently not directly derived from the plant. Since bamboo is a cellulosic fiber, it needs to be broken down through a rayon or viscose process (as outlined in Series 1.2) and revisited again in a future interactive series.*

Designers considering using bamboo-based materials or purchasing bamboo-based materials from Source4Style for use in their collections should note whether they are purchasing bamboo rayon or bamboo linen, and label appropriately.  Be aware of the current FTC guidelines and do not overstate environmental claims, and when possible, probe a bit deeper with suppliers to understand the socio-cultural and environmental policies in raw material production, cultivation and processing.

*This concludes our three-part series of Textile Talk on Oh So MOSO. You can read the Introduction here, Series 1.1 here and Series 1.2 here. Tune in here for more information on an interactive series/discussion on bamboo materials, marketing and market demands.

Lima, Peru – Source4Style embarked on our first sourcing trip to South America today at Peru Moda – the annual gathering of the Peruvian fashion and apparel industry.

We scoured the floor for the latest sustainable materials coming out of this very rich textiles region. Here’s a quick sneak peek of what we found, and what you’ll be able to find on Source4Style in the coming months…

1. Alpaca, alpaca and… more alpaca.

We’ve long been searching for the world’s finest quality alpaca to join our local selection from Waite Hill Farms in upstate New York, and we have most definitely found it in Peru. Alpaca is a silky natural fiber that while similar to sheep’s wool is warmer, softer and more lightweight with unique thermal and hypoallergenic properties. We were even invited back for an Alpaca Fiesta in November, which looks more than intriguing…

2. Pima – Luxury, Long Staple Cotton

Also known as ELS – or Extra Long Staple – cotton, Pima is a luxurious and durable high-quality cotton native to Peru’s age-old cotton growing tradition. It is durable, absorbent and extremely soft. The perfect t-shirt dress material is on the way.

3. Tintes Naturales

We’ll be heading to Cuzco in a few days where we look forward to getting even closer to the source, but we got a sneak peek today of Cusco Textiles which is carrying on the ancient and sustainable craft of natural-dyed yarns, threads and fabrics. My question was how is the red so rich, without any use of chemicals or synthetics? The secret – a pinch of cochineal… we’ll report more from the source in Cuzco.

In addition to Peru Moda showcasing some of the best raw materials, the fashion from the country’s emerging designers is wide-reaching and impressive. We particularly had a soft spot for designer Clio, who made us fall even more in love with the fine alpaca fibre… if that’s even possible!

Stay tuned for the latest updates from our Day 2 at Peru Moda… we’re calling it a night with some alfajores.

RSVP today for the April 27th Panel hosted by Hessnatur and Ecouterre on “Why Does Sustainable Fashion Matter?”

Topics include: Responsible consumerism, fashion and its environmental impact, greenwashing, improvement of lives in the garment industry, incorporate sustainable fashion into your wardrobe, and where to shop, borrow or swap.

Date: Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Time: 6:30PM-9PM

Location: Relative Space, 2 Bond Street (between Broadway and Lafayette)

RSVP: chao@evynblock.com | 212-542-5062. Space is limited.

Video Fashion News joins Summer Rayne Oakes on a journey through the Estethica exhibit at London Fashion Week to get the first glimpse at the latest trends in sustainable fashion design.

Bamboo as Textile: Challenges, Quality, Processing and Technical Properties. See what’s in store in the coming weeks here.

What designers need to know about bamboo

All fabrics are not created equally.

Take bamboo fiber as an example. Before the 2009 FTC bamboo backlash, the fabric, (which was principally being sold in bamboo viscose form), was being marketed in most cases as “bacteriostatic, biodegradable, natural, hypoallergenic and breathable.” Before getting into some of the descriptors, however, let’s talk about the processing techniques.

There still is some discrepancy and misunderstanding on how bamboo (Phyllostachys heterocycla pubescens), the plant, is processed into a fiber or fabric. This has been due to unclear processing techniques and in some cases – “proprietary processing” muddled with snappy marketing leftovers circa 2008. Bamboo is largely processed as a regenerated cellulosic rayon fiber (Figure 1), which uses solvents and other chemicals to break down and bleach the woody fiber. A less common, more costly practice is a mechanical process combined with enzymes that create bamboo linen (Figure 2), which has fabric properties more akin to a traditional bast fiber like flax or hemp.

Figure 1. Photomicrograph of rayon fibers. A close inspection of rayon fibers reveals fibers with a smoother surface to it’s bamboo linen counterpart, which is mechanically processed. (Wet mount, 10x objective, transmitted brightfield illumination).

Figure 2. Photomicrograph of linen fibers. Fibers are ripped apart to obtain fiber for textiles and are broken down enzymatically. Cell walls are still visible. (Wet mount, 10x objective, transmitted brightfield illumination).

Rayon processing, though chemical in nature, has improved over the years. It has been documented that some manufacturers use a lyocell-type process (closed-loop rayon processing in which chemicals are recycled), but closer analysis needs to be assessed for each manufacturer. Additionally, it is important to consider that the facility has appropriate wastewater treatment facilities and worker health and safety standards.

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There has been some discrepancy on how bamboo is processed…due to unclear processing techniques…muddled with snappy marketing leftovers circa 2008.

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If you sell clothing, linens, or other textile products,  you’re responsible for making truthful disclosures about the fiber content. If your product isn’t made directly of bamboo fiber (i.e., bamboo linen) — but is a manufactured fiber for which bamboo was the plant source (i.e., rayon or viscose) — it should be labeled and advertised using the proper generic name for the fiber, such as “rayon”, “bamboo rayon” or “rayon made from bamboo.”

What’s so technical about it?

Bamboo’s natural porosity as a plant has given it a unique ability to absorb and wick away moisture. Multiple testing laboratories, both international and abroad, show positive results, though it is important to note that these tests will vary on how fabric is manufactured and processed. We encourage suppliers and designers to run independent third-party tests on moisture-vapor transmission and other performance features.

Bamboo as a bactericide?

One of the popular properties in bamboo-based fabric that designers and manufacturers alike were praising was an undisclosed “antimicrobial agent,” often referred to as “bamboo kun.” It is largely known now that after rayon processing all bacteriostatic activity is no longer present.

For years, however, the hunt for the mysterious “bamboo kun” was on. Internet sites praised its properties but no one questioned what it actually was or where it came from. In bamboo plant extract studies, 2,6-dimethoxy-p-benzoquinone was isolated and identified. This is most likely the bactericide colloquially known as “bamboo kun.” This particular quinone is clearly naturally-occurring in the plant prior to processing. Various sources show evidence that if bamboo is burned into charcoal and spun into the rayon fiber during final processing, the antimicrobial properties are still retained, but further studies are encouraged to confirm those reports.*

It is unclear but the quinone may be the reason why some still tout bamboo fabric as “hypoallergenic.” If this is the case, it is not advisable to promote bamboo fabric as such considering that the benzoquinone derivative has been shown to cause allergic skin reactions in guinea pigs and humans. Though there have been no reported incidences regarding allergies to bamboo-based clothes and only 2% to 5% of the population will develop an allergic sensitivity to one or more compounds found in plants, effects of the chemical on the body should be taken into account if shown to be present.

*Note: Antimicrobial properties, if they are to be used as a marketing angle, should be validated by a certified, independent third party testing facility.

Tune in next Friday, April 29th for Oh So MOSO Series 1.3: The Market – Inter- and Intra-market demands, claims and standards. See what’s in store in the coming weeks here.

And let us know if you’d like for us to set up a group webinar on this Series of Textile Talk: Oh So Moso.

In the latest episode of The Green Room, BBMG’s Mitch Baranowski chats with Source4Style Co-founder/CEO, Summer Rayne Oakes about the vision behind Source4Style and what to expect on the platform in the coming months.