Archive for the ‘Sustainability Metrics’ Category

FTC prepares to unleash new green guidelines

September 3, 2010

After years of rigorous review, the Federal Trade Commission will unveil the improved regulations against greenwashing.

natural brush

A recent report by Ad Age reveals that the Federal Trade Commission is preparing to launch new regulatory enforcement around  The Green Guides, which help marketers avoid making environmental claims that are unfair or deceptive under Section 5 of the FTC Act. Some of the biggest problem areas that spurred such need for reform included environmental claims around what truly is “biodegradable,” “compostable,” “recyclable,” “recycled content,” and “carbon neutral,” for instance. Around this time last year, the FTC cracked down on “bamboo” claims asserting that bamboo fiber is indeed rayon and should be labeled as “rayon” or “rayon manufactured from bamboo.”

The revival of the regulations in the guides are the first move to crack-down on environmental-marketing claims in 12 years, according to Ad Age, and are poised to radically reshape how far marketers can go in painting their products, packaging or even corporate images green. However, they are expected to help elucidate and refine ambiguous areas of environmental marketing. Packaging, textiles, and other materials and products will fall under the new regulations.

Continue Reading

natural brush

A recent report by Ad Age reveals that the Federal Trade Commission is preparing to launch new regulatory enforcement around  The Green Guides, which help marketers avoid making environmental claims that are unfair or deceptive under Section 5 of the FTC Act. Some of the biggest problem areas that spurred such need for reform included environmental claims around what truly is “biodegradable,” “compostable,” “recyclable,” “recycled content,” and “carbon neutral,” for instance. Around this time last year, the FTC cracked down on “bamboo” claims asserting that bamboo fiber is indeed rayon and should be labeled as “rayon” or “rayon manufactured from bamboo.”

The revival of the regulations in the guides are the first move to crack-down on environmental-marketing claims in 12 years, according to Ad Age, and are poised to radically reshape how far marketers can go in painting their products, packaging or even corporate images green. However, they are expected to help elucidate and refine ambiguous areas of environmental marketing. Packaging, textiles, and other materials and products will fall under the new regulations.

Source4Style currently follows FTC guidelines for the materials found on our portal and upon launch will contain a wealth of environmental and social information for each product so that buyers will have greater understanding and assurance on how to communicate and market a material appropriately. We expect that the FTC will focus on how consumers interpret or understand claims rather than focusing on the technical definitions for terms like biodegradability or recyclability.  We also don’t expect The Green Guides to set internal or external performance standards like the Eco Index.

What we do expect is greater regulatory oversight of how and what gets marketed. Brands should be prepared to:

  1. Make any environmental qualifications or disclosures sufficiently clear to prevent deception;
  2. Clarify what part of the product or package has certain environmental claims;
  3. Be conservative and ensure not to overstate any environmental claim; and
  4. Clarify comparative claims so that consumers know whether the comparison is to a previous version of the advertised product or to a competitor’s product.

One area of concern will be the use of blanketing claims like “environmentally-friendly,” “eco-friendly,” and “green.” Brands are encouraged to become more multi-dimensional when staking out environmental benefits and be able to authenticate specific environmental attributes. In summary, vague, confusing and misleading is an outright No, No and brands that err on the side of caution before claiming will win out in the end.

The Eco Index launches beta site to aid apparel industry in assessing supply chain sustainability

August 3, 2010

A crowd of 100 at the Outdoor Industry Association's annual event convenes in Salt Lake City today and tomorrow to unveil the Beta version of the Eco Index.

Outdoor Industry Association’s Eco Index is prime time for piloting, meaning the Beta Version is now available on the new Eco Index site here for industries to internally assess environmental aspects along their supply chain. Even though recent reports from media outlets like Fast Company and The Wall Street Journal have intimated that this is a consumer-facing label, Eco Working Group members like Jill Dumain, Director of Environmental Strategy at Patagonia and Chair of the Eco Working Group Advisory Council, affirm that this is an “internal supply chain facing tool to assess the environmental impacts of individual products.”

“This session was the kick-off to the pilot program,” says Beth Jensen, Corporate Responsibility Manager of OIA.  “It gave the 100 or so attendees who have been a part of the Eco Working Group a detailed overview of the tool and real-life examples of how to use the index for a number of different products.”

Continue Reading

Outdoor Industry Association’s Eco Index is prime time for piloting, meaning the Beta Version is now available on the new Eco Index site here for industries to internally assess environmental aspects along their supply chain. Even though recent reports from media outlets like Fast Company and The Wall Street Journal have intimated that this is a consumer-facing label, Eco Working Group members like Jill Dumain, Director of Environmental Strategy at Patagonia and Chair of the Eco Working Group Advisory Council, affirm that this is an “internal supply chain facing tool to assess the environmental impacts of individual products.”

“This session was the kick-off to the pilot program,” says Beth Jensen, Corporate Responsibility Manager of OIA.  “It gave the 100 or so attendees who have been a part of the Eco Working Group a detailed overview of the tool and real-life examples of how to use the index for a number of different products.”

The Eco Index is divided up into three different “levels” including Guidelines, Indicators and Metrics to assess the impacts within six product life cycle stages, which include, Materials, Packaging, Product Manufacturing and Assembly, Transport and Distribution, Use of Service, and End of Life. Testing products through the Eco Index during this Beta period and providing feedback will be essential to the evolution of the Index. The Group wants to ensure that this tool is useful for any company of any size and for any product – whether it be a hard good, like a camping stove; a soft good, like a jacket; and other “hybrid” products, like footwear.

Sample items run through the Index were presented by Jamie Bainbridge, Materials Research Director at NAU, who tried two hard shell jackets at the Indicator level; Peter Girard, formerly on the Timberland Environmental Stewardship team and now Senior Consultant at PE International, focused on a footwear product at the Metrics level; Steve Grind, Product Manager at Cascade Designs focused on a camping stove on the Indicators level; and Joe McSwiney, President of Cascade Designs highlighted the Facilities Indicators.

McSwiney joked that the Index looked arduous but was relatively simple to use. The Index essentially provides a series of questions about a product and a point system attributed to that question. If you don’t know an answer to a question, you  most often will check the “0” point box or the “negative” point box and then you move on. This comparative scoring system at Indicator level provides a standardized level achievement and the data capture tool at Metric level provides a means to collect quantitative data.

“You basically keep reading until you’re stuck and that’s your score,” McSwiney laughed. “What you learn from that, however, is very useful,” he continued. “The missed scores are in fact the most useful scores. I basically came away saying, ‘Wow, look at all the things that we can do to improve.’ It really gives you a great framework to work within.”

Jamie Bainbridge agreed: “I found that if we could third-party verify our products – be it for recycled content or risk substances – we could do much better as a company.” She also noted through her presentation that there were some questions that she had to take an educated guess at. In the End of Life stage for what percentage of your product can be recycled, for instance,  she noted that nearly all of her product could potentially be recycled, but didn’t know if the consumer would know how to recycle it or if he or she even had access to recycling centers that could recycle it.

“We built this jacket now to address a recycling market that I hope will exist in the future, so I feel like I did the right thing now so the right thing can be done in the future when the jacket is worn out,” she explained. However, she noted that she wouldn’t allow herself to take the 1 point attributed to that Indicator question in the Eco Index because she couldn’t truly say that they can recycle “100%” of the product. “I’m encouraging my company to take the more conservative route so that I can do best as a designer for my company,” she said, which seemed to resonate with a number of people in the audience.  “I can only practically recycle the polyester materials,” she remarked, “so that will go in my feedback of using this tool and how it scored my product.”

Pete Girard who was intimately involved with Timberland’s Green Index, their company-wide, consumer-facing tool which measures the environmental impact of their products, said that the methodology of both tools is essentially the same. “As I was going through the Eco Index,” he explains, “I realized we didn’t really have much data on waste and water. The Eco Index helps prioritize the issues and reveals that we need to get more water data in our supply chain.”

At present, the Eco Index does not provide an overarching score or ranking for finished products; does not provide a consumer-facing tool; and will not undergo the development of Phase 2 testing, which includes Transportation Guidelines, Delivered Product Metrics, Consumer End Use Product Metrics, and Full Lifecycle Product Metrics, until they have a third-party review of the Eco Index (as conducted by CERES) and final pilot program feedback.

Companies interested in trial testing their products through the Eco Index can do so at the Eco Index Beta site and register there to provide feedback. Organizations that want to participate in Phase 2 and be a part of the Eco Working Group can register at the Outdoor Industry Association’s website.

We’ll be doing some presentations on behalf of the Eco Index in the New York area in October and December, so if you’re interested, be sure to to tune in here to Source4Style’s blog, S4.

Outdoor apparel industry on verge of unified environmental assessment tool

July 12, 2010

A new environmental assessment tool is on the horizon that will help establish, refine, implement and leverage an emerging common language of environmental sustainability for the fashion industry.

The apparel industry is poised to launch the first environmental assessment tool that offers a common language to approach environmental sustainability for products and their supply chains. Source4Style is one of 100 members of the Outdoor Industry’s Association’s (OIA) and European Outdoor Group’s Eco Working Group preparing the tool for the release. Other key members include: Adidas, Patagonia, Columbia Sportswear, Levi Strauss & Co, Nau, REI, The North Face, Timberland, YKK, among others.

Over the last three and a half years, the Eco Working group committees have spent thousands of hours to help launch the Eco Index, a modular environmental assessment tool intended to be used by companies to incorporate environmental considerations and efficiencies into product design and to manage their supply chains in a way that supports their environmental goals.

“I’ve been doing collaborative work for twenty years and I have never seen a group come together in the way that this one has,” remarked Jill Dumain, Director of Environmental Strategy at Patagonia and Chair of the Eco Working Group Advisory Council. “It’s been a lot of sweat equity and the respect and trust among the people participating has gone a long way to keep the group engaged.”

Continue Reading

The apparel industry is poised to launch the first environmental assessment tool that offers a common language to approach environmental sustainability for products and their supply chains. Source4Style is one of 100 members of the Outdoor Industry’s Association’s (OIA) and European Outdoor Group’s Eco Working Group preparing the tool for the release. Other key members include: Adidas, Patagonia, Columbia Sportswear, Levi Strauss & Co, Nau, REI, The North Face, Timberland, YKK, among others.

Over the last three and a half years, the Eco Working group committees have spent thousands of hours to help launch the Eco Index, a modular environmental assessment tool intended to be used by companies to incorporate environmental considerations and efficiencies into product design and to manage their supply chains in a way that supports their environmental goals.

“I’ve been doing collaborative work for twenty years and I have never seen a group come together in the way that this one has,” remarked Jill Dumain, Director of Environmental Strategy at Patagonia and Chair of the Eco Working Group Advisory Council. “It’s been a lot of sweat equity and the respect and trust among the people participating has gone a long way to keep the group engaged.”

The early collaborative process involved extensive research and analysis into existing national and international standards and certifications; review of company standards, including Timberland, Nike, Levi Strauss & Co., Patagonia, Brooks and others; weekly updates online and over the phone; monthly conference calls to finalize and review working documents; and workshops and meetings held at annual OIA conferences. “We’ve invested a lot of time up front so we can be more productive in the future,” says Dumain. “As a result of that, companies, brands and supply chain partners are all going to be working towards the same goal now.”

How The Eco Index works

The Eco Index uses environmental guidelines, performance indicators and footprint metrics to assess the impacts within six product life cycle stages. These include: Materials, Packaging, Product Manufacturing and Assembly, Transport and Distribution, Use of Service, and End of Life.

From there, a comparative scoring system at the indicator level provides standardized levels of achievement and a means to collect quantitative data within seven critical lenses, or areas of impact. These lenses include: Land Use Intensity, Water, Waste, Biodiversity, Chemistry/Toxics (People), Chemistry/Toxics (Environment), and Energy Use/Greenhouse Gas Emissions.

“The Eco Index provides companies with a way to benchmark their environmental footprint,” says Beth Jensen, Corporate Responsibility Manager of  OIA. “The outdoor industry has a responsibility to be a leader in this area since we are inextricably linked to our environment.”

Global Reach

The creation of a standardized Eco Index is a big step in addressing sustainability in the apparel industry and will undoubtedly propel both manufacturers and retailers to adopt the principles set forth in the assessment tool. “The benchmarks provide a common language for the industry to work from,” says Jensen. “Brands now have a set of questions they can ask their suppliers in order to improve their supply chain. In turn, suppliers can identify areas of improvement and prioritize areas to work on. If they want to keep brands as customers,” remarks Jensen, “They will need to get on board.”

Dumain agrees: “I think so many companies want to do the right thing environmentally but not every company has the ability to understand what the right thing is. We’ve been able to bring together the best minds and the best ideas and come up with an index that is really progressive and that everyone has agreed upon. Partners along the supply chain can work towards the same goal and change within the industry will happen at a quicker rate.”

Source4Style note: Source4Style is proud to be part of the the Eco Working Group and will be incorporating the Eco Index into various aspects of our business, including in our Supplier Sustainability Questionnaire, which will be open for public comment in the Winter of 2010. We encourage designers and brands who are a part of the Source4Style community to participate in The Eco Index pilot program, slated to begin next month. Information, webinars, and workshop sessions will be announced shortly.
Further note: The Eco Index is currently in Phase 1 Beta stage. Content has been developed to support approximately 80 percent of the full index framework. The formal Eco Index Phase 1 launch is scheduled for early 2011. Development of Phase 2 content will begin in early 2011. At present, The Eco Index does not provide an overarching score or ranking for finished products.